Appleby apprentice goldsmith Ríona Finn recently won the RDS Emerging Maker Award of Excellence & California Gold Medal. Ríona has been with Appleby since August 2015, and is a graduate of the Jewellery and Goldsmithing Skills and Design Course run by the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland in Kilkenny. She won the award for her hand-fabricated 18ct yellow gold, sterling silver and champagne diamond bangle (pictured above), inspired by an 18th century tsuba (Japanese iron sword guard) from the decorative arts collection in the National Museum of Ireland, Collins Barracks. Photograph by Roland Paschhoff, image courtesy of the RDS.
Appleby has a long tradition of excellence in craftsmanship and design and is proud to work with some of the finest craftspeople in Ireland. Fostering innovation in design is important at Appleby, allowing us to continue to create beautiful contemporary jewellery that resonates with our customers.
We had the opportunity to ask Ríona about her career so far, her inspirations and future ambitions.
Photograph by Shane O′Neill Photography, image courtesy of the RDS.
What led you to working with jewellery?
I was very interested in arts and crafts as a child, and I used to do a lot of drawing, bead work, etc. In school and university I pursued science subjects; after completing a BSc and an MSc in language technology, I worked in that area for a few years but never felt it was the right road for me. I took some night classes in jewellery making and really loved it, so I took the plunge and changed careers. I am focusing on learning the craft of goldsmithing at the moment.
What is your role in Appleby?
I am an apprentice goldsmith, based full-time in the workshop. At the moment, much of my work is prescribed, but occasionally I can have some influence in the design of the piece. As I gain experience I hope to become increasingly involved at an earlier design stage.
How does working for a brand such as Appleby advance your skills and career?
In the past year I have gained a lot of experience working in gold, platinum and mixed metals (for example, rose gold and platinum, or white and yellow gold in the one piece). My speed and accuracy have improved and I enjoy the challenge of working on alterations to jewellery brought to us by the customer. Being in such a busy workshop has been great exposure to a wide variety of work and the many specialities which are done in-house.
What are your preferred metals and gemstones?
Since studying with Gem-A (the Gemmological Association of Great Britain) I have a new found love for coloured gemstones. You cannot do better than a diamond for sparkle (and on the practical side, it is the best choice for an engagement ring which will probably be worn every day for a lifetime!) For occasional wear, such as a cocktail ring, I prefer coloured stones set in warm yellow gold.
What are your favourite pieces to work on?
Strangely, I love to work on jewellery which has been seriously damaged! Sometimes a ring will come in which has been cut off, or it has been walked on, or broken into several pieces. I love the challenge of making these pieces look like new again.
Where do you get inspiration from?
When I have a project in mind, I think about it constantly. Having a smart phone is great for snapping pictures of patterns or shapes I like, and I usually have a little notebook in my handbag to doodle any idea that comes to me. I seem to come up with the best ideas when I am swimming or washing my hair; not so convenient as I cannot scribble them down before I forget!
How do you begin conceptualising a piece?
I will start with the function of the piece. No matter how beautiful a finished piece, if it does not meet the needs of the end user, it is a failure as a design. It is important for me to try to know a little bit about the style and personality of the client so they will feel comfortable wearing the piece.
Your award winning Kumo bangle is stunning. What inspired it and how was it made?
My Kumo bangle was inspired by an 18th century Japanese iron tsuba with alloy detailing. I chose to construct a stylised hollow hinged bangle with a box catch. The bangle has a silver inner layer in a cloud relief pattern, an 18 carat gold outer layer of cloud outlines, 10 champagne diamonds dotted around the clouds, an oxidised finish between the layers and a handmade hinge and catch; there is no sound as satisfying as the click of a neatly constructed box-catch!
What are your future ambitions?
I hope to continue my training as a goldsmith to the point where my skills are such that there are no limits to my designs. I intend to continue my gemmological studies and would like to train further in CAD and stone setting. I would also love to be more deeply involved in design consultancy, working on designs for client commissions from the first stages through to producing the finished piece.
Any favourite piece of design from the history of jewellery design?
I have always been fascinated by Fabergé eggs; they have such an interesting history. The designs are so intricate and the skills required to produce them immense.
A Fabergé Egg from the Kremlin Museum collection in Moscow
Thank you Ríona!
For more information on our workshop visit here.